Cat Training – How to Train a Cat

by admin on February 12, 2010

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Girl Sitting With Cat

Training your cat can be beneficial for the cat as well as their owner.

Somehow the phrase “Cat Training” seems like an oxymoron. I have had several cats in my lifetime and each one seemed to have a mind of their own. They were independent and aloof and rarely did what I wanted them to do.

However, over the years I have learned a few things that with a little practice and patience I have taught my independent and aloof cats some very simple commands like sit, stay and come. I have not gotten to any more advanced training like lumping through hoops, twirling or high-fiving but I’m working on it.

All the time I am finding people who have been able to teach their cats some pretty amazing tricks and I have learned some of the basics on how to teach my cats that I want to pass on as well as the benefits of training your cat. This has been a very enjoyable experience for both em and my feline companions.

The benefits of training a cat

Just because cats typically lead individual lives doesn’t mean that they necessarily want to do so. In fact, cats are very social animals and they are are incredibly affectionate and loving by nature – they just need you to demonstrate your leadership and initiate the rapport-building process.

Cats are underestimated when it comes to training, because the most owners have very little need to attempt any sort of training at all. Unlike dogs (whose ability to learn is very well documented) there’s no need to train cats in the basics of pet protocol like house training and bathing. Cats pretty much take care of themselves in that area. As a result, few people are aware of their cat’s abilities in this area.

Training your cat is a great way to enrich your cat’s life:

  • It builds a strong rapport between you and your cat
  • Training underlines your authority (your cat has to do what you want to get what they want) and it helps to curb dominant behavior
  • It keeps your cat’s mind active and stimulated
  • It’s great interactive play, and teaches good social skills
  • Anxious and highly-strung cats are reassured and soothed by the repetition and routine of training


So how do I train my cat?

There are two methods of training a cat: target training and clicker training. A brief description of each:

  • Target training is where you attract your cat’s attention and then obtain desired behaviors through the use of a designated tool. For example, during the ‘beg’ command, a particular target training tool called a training wand is used to attract the cat’s attention upwards, and to encourage the cat to rise up on his haunches and ‘beg’.
  • Clicker training is a form of operant conditioning (which is where the animal is taught to form a conscious association between a specific behavior and a result.) A small mechanical noise-maker (the ‘clicker’) is used by the trainer to create a short, distinct noise. The clicker is clicked at the precise moment that the cat performs a desired behavior – for example, during ‘sit’, the clicker is clicked at the very instant that the cat’s bottom touches the ground. Directly after the click, the cat is fed a small and tasty treat. With repetition, the cat grows to associate the click with the food, and recognizes his own ability to earn treats by performing the desired action on command. The clicker is a particularly valued training tool because it allows the trainer to pinpoint the exact behavior that’s being rewarded: without the clicker, it’s too easy for the cat to form associations between the treat and a completely unrelated behavior (since it’s impossible to feed the cat a treat at the precise moment that he’s performing a trick.)


Practical tips for training your cat

  • Be patient. Your cat is an individual, with his own abilities, preferences and personality. They will pick up some tricks quickly, but may struggle with others. Make allowances for their personality, and don’t lose your cool if it doesn’t go exactly according to plan.
  • If you’re free-feeding your cat (leaving food out at all times for them to eat as and when they feels like it), stop doing this. Enforcing a feeding schedule has two main benefits: it increases the reward-value of food treats as training devices, and also introduces a semblance of routine into your cat’s life (which, believe it or not, most cats actually prefer.)
  • Train smart. If you’re using food treats (which is highly recommended to achieve the desired results) then schedule training sessions for just before mealtimes: your cat’s natural desire for food at his regular mealtime will sharpen his focus and increase his desire to obey you (so he can get a treat.)
  • Take baby steps. When training your cat, it’s best to build up a solid foundation of the basics before attempting to expand his repertoire.
  • Remember, cats have pretty short attention spans, and low boredom thresholds. Keep lessons short and interesting – and always try to end on a positive note.


An example of successful cat training in action

Training your cat to “sit” on command

“Sit” is a great basic command for your cat to know, because it serves as the foundation for a number of other, more advanced tricks and commands (for example, “stay”, “beg”, and “high five”.)

  • Make your training wand extra-effective by smearing the tip in a little tuna oil, and use it to attract your cat’s attention (wave it around, trail it past his face, etc.)
  • Once they have come over to you, place the wand just over their head, so that it’s slightly behind the crown of their head.
  • They will tilt their head back to keep his eyes on it. When they do this, they will naturally sit down (since otherwise, their neck can’t bend back far enough to allow them to keep watching the training wand.)
  • As they sit down, say the word “Sit”, which will be the verbal cue for this command (your cat will grow to associate the command with the act of sitting, and eventually will learn to sit down whenever you ask him to.)
  • As soon as their bottom touches the ground, click the clicker. It’s important that you time this precisely.
  • Directly after clicking, give them a small food treat. Make sure it’s cut up very small – if it takes them more than two seconds to eat it, they’ll forget why you gave it to them.
  • Repeat this process a few more times, and over the next few weeks, keep doing so until they’re comfortable with what’s expected of them. When they’re able to sit down on command, you can phase the clicker out – but still give treats sporadically (interestingly, if you treat every single time that he performs a command, they’re actually less likely to reliably obey that command. Keeping them on their toes seems to increase the likelihood of obedience!)


Further training

For step-by-step advice on how to train your cat in a huge variety of other obedience commands and tricks (from ‘stay’ to ‘play dead’ to ‘fetch’), check out the Complete Cat Training book – it’s full of training how-to’s, as well as a huge amount of detailed information on solving problem behaviors, cat psychology, and how to develop a more rewarding relationship with your cat.

For more information visit the Complete Cat Training website today!

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Cat Training: Play Aggression

by admin on February 12, 2010

Cats are naturally predatory by nature and aggressive behaviors like stalking, chasing, pouncing, leaping and biting are common and it’s a major part in any cat’s play session. It’s normally not a problem: it’s just the way cats are and playing along with their predatory nature can be really fun!

However, if the play becomes too aggressive this situation can become very uncomfortable, very fast. You are faced with a cat that does not understand that this kind of play is painful and dangerous.  The most common problem with this form of aggression is a result of a bored, under-exercised and lonely cat that becomes overstimulated and mock aggression becomes real aggression.

How do cats normally play?

Cats play in two ways: Social and Solitary. Social play is directed toward other cats and humans while solitary play is directed toward objects like balls, mobile cat toys and paper bags. Aggression can be present in both types of play but it only becomes an issue if humans are involved.

What causes play aggression?

Play aggression happens when your cat has an too much energy stored up. It usually comes from a lack of exercise and human interaction. As a result, the cat becomes too rambunctious and vigorous during a play session.

Because all cat play is based around the predatory nature, overstimulated cats vent this excess through an intensified mode of their normal predatory play. Instead of swatting at you with claws sheathed, they will extend them; instead of mouthing your hand, they give it a sharp bite.

The problem is usually self-replicating. The cat is play-aggressive because they’re not getting enough stimulation and interactive play time.  Because they demonstrate this behavior whenever they get played with, their owner plays with them less. This results in more play aggression which results in even less play, and so on.

How can I tell when my cat’s about to become aggressive?

You can tell when the play is getting out of control by paying attention to your cat’s body language and expressions.

Normally, non-aggressive play behavior includes the “play face”, with a half-open mouth and heavily lidded eyes, the sideways hop (often with arched back), and a lightly switching tail (it’s going from side to side, but slowly and gently.)

When your cat’s getting too revved-up their body language will change dramatically. Their ears will go back, their tail will start lashing violently from side to side, and their pupils will enlarge. Their movements will also become significantly more vigorous and energetic and they’ll increase speed and force to their playing.

What should I do when I sense things are getting out of control?

If you think your cat’s getting overexcited, the best thing you can do is to stand up and walk away before they actually starts to display aggression! You can resume play as soon as they’re calmed down. The idea is to intervene before they have the chance to vent their energy on you.

If it’s too late for this and they have already started to bite or scratch at you, don’t reward them with attention, not even negative attention. Simply stand up and walk away. Leave the room, if necessary.

At this point, she will most likely try to initiate play with you again. When they do, don’t respond. Play initiation is dominant behavior, and if you accede to their demands, it’ll teach them that bothering you for attention results in their getting her own way.

If they are particularly persistent, or the aggression is becoming hard to deal with, you can isolate them in a room by themselves until they have calmed down (which can take anywhere from five to twenty minutes.)

Main do’s and don’ts for play aggression

  • Remember, your cat isn’t really trying to “attack” you. Their intentions are purely playful. They just need to learn that aggressive behavior isn’t going to result in a rewarding play session for them. In order for them to learn this, you need to be consistent with your reactions. Don’t reward them with attention sometimes, and ignore them at other times. They’ll get confused, and won’t learn to curb their aggressive behavior.
  • Don’t ever use physical punishment to correct play aggression. There are two reasons for this: If you actually hurt your cat, this will result in increased aggression on their behalf; and even if it doesn’t hurt, it’s still going to scare them, which results in owner-avoidance and a general deterioration of your relationship.
  • Since play aggression is almost always due to boredom and an excess of energy, the best thing you can do is to provide lots of opportunities for stimulating interactive play with your cat. Try to make it aerobic exercise and get them running around, chasing things, climbing, pouncing, and so on.
  • Make sure the play is on your terms. Don’t allow your cat to initiate play. This is habit-forming, and teaches them that you can be manipulated.
  • If you find it difficult to make the time to play with your cat, scheduling in a couple of set ten-minute playtimes each day might help. Paying attention to your cat’s circadian rhythms (watching to see when they are the most active) is a good idea as well. Play with them when they are wide-awake and raring to go. They’ll get more out of it.


What toys should I use?

Cats are predators. Their play is instinctively based around behaviors that will increase their ability to hunt.

Because of this, cats prefer toys that resemble prey, small and mobile objects that move.

Try things like ping-pong balls, crumpled paper, cardboard boxes, paper bags, dangling ropes affixed to the ceiling or doorways, scratching posts, and balls of yarn for solitary play; and fake mice, cat dancers (like a mobile which you dangle and jerk around for your cat to play with), wands, and anything that rolls which you can toss for her for interactive play.

If they like to climb and explore, you can also try creating an obstacle course for them to enjoy. Try rig up some branches, pillars, shelves, perches, and climbing ramps for them to climb around on. Most cats enjoy being up high, so this should go down a treat. You can also try hiding some small, tasty treats in various places to encourage them to get climbing.

For a really detailed look at how to deal with your cat’s behavior problems, take a look at Complete Cat Training. It’s a cutting-edge cat training manual that’s focused on training your cat and changing her behavior for the better.

For professional tips on transforming your cat’s behavior problems (as well as teaching her some pretty neat tricks, from sit and stay to roll over, play dead, and fetch!) Complete Cat Training comes very highly recommended.

For more information visit the Complete Cat Training website today!

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Urine marking in Cats

February 12, 2010

Urine marking – sometimes called spraying – is when your cat deposits small amounts of urine (usually on vertical surfaces) as a kind of message tag to announce his presence. Although this issue involves inappropriate urination inside the house, marking isn’t actually a housetraining problem: it’s a deliberate expression of territoriality, which is a completely [...]

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